Gravitating towards Saturn - Navagraha temples in TN - article in DH

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/114544/gravitating-towards-saturn.html

Gravitating towards Saturn

M R Venkatesh from Chennai

Navagraha temples in Tamil Nadu

35 per cent of devotees visiting south India's most famous Sani temple are from Karnataka

Inductivity theorists who swear by the generalisation that 'all crows are black' now have a counter-example to ponder over.  There is at least one 'golden crow'. That bird as the vehicle of Lord Saneeshwara (the Hindu planetary God symbolising Saturn), graciously silhouettes the deity's feet, in the famous shrine at Tirunallar at the tail-end of the Cauvery river in Karaikal bordering composite Thanjavur district.

One of India's rare shrines for Saturn, who is pivotal for believers in astrology and that nine orbiting planets influence human destiny, is housed inside the 7th century 'Darbaraneshwarar Temple' dedicated to Lord Shiva.

The crow at Tirunallar is gold-plated, sceptics and rationalists may counter. But it is weaved in with a profound mythology and would not have seen the light of day, had the legendary King Nala remained a lowly cook in the Palace of the King of Ayodhya after the former lost his kingdom.

Thanks to sage Narada's advice, the cursed King Nala was relieved of his 'Sani Dosha' (the malefic effect associated with Saturn), and got back his Kingdom after he took a 'holy dip' in the tank and worshipped the Lord at Thirunallar. To this day, the tank is known as 'Nala-Theertha', reinforcing the age-old belief of the dramatic, redemptive properties of its waters.

 This pilgrimage centre, along with a unique cluster of eight other temples- each dedicated to eight other closer known planets of the solar system- and collectively termed the 'Navagraha Temples' in Tamil Nadu's Thanjavur district, has been as much a spiritual odyssey for people as a compulsive ladder to jump obstacles to prosperity.

 Their geography is quite interesting. All the nine temples for each of nine planets are within a 60-km radius around Kumbakonam, which itself is celebrated in the Hindu tradition as 'Bhaskara Kshetram' - a powerful primordial solar centre - hinting that the ancients possibly held both a heliocentric and geocentric view of the Universe.

And today, amid global climate change concerns, it is solar energy that is the key, aver scientists!

Once the underlying concepts and unity in their geography came on to a wider public domain, the State tourism department was the first to seize it as an opportunity to promote the 'Navagraha Sthalams' as a niche slice of spiritual tourism with a therapeutic touch. The temple town of Kumbakonam naturally became the locus of this special tourism package.

 Tourism officials say that starting with Kumbakonam, any typical three or four-day schedule includes first a visit to 'Suryanar Kovil' (shrine for Sun God), followed by 'Alangudi' where there is a shrine for 'Guru' or the planet Jupiter, the 'Mecca' for an increasingly knowledge-based society.

Then the road is to 'Thirunageshwaram' where there is a shrine for the planet 'Rahu' (North Lunar Node), after which pilgrims are usually taken to 'Vaitheeshwaran Kovil'. Since mythological serpents like 'Adiseshan' and 'Karkotakan' are said to have worshipped Lord Shiva at Thirunageshwaram, it is a must-visit for those suffering from 'sarpa dosha'.

To its south-east is 'Vaitheeshwaran Kovil' that has a special shrine for 'Chevvai' (planet Mars). The belief is that prayers offered there bestows "valour and victory", while a dip in the 'Siddhamrita Tank' there is recommended for cure for various skin ailments, as its waters have some curative properties.

Then the tour winds through 'Thiruvenkadu' which houses a shrine for 'Budha' (planet Mercury), Keezhaperumpallam that has a shrine for 'Ketu' (South lunar node) and then to the famous shrine for Lord Saturn at Thirunallar, say tourism officials. Pilgrims spend the maximum time there.
On return, they pray at the shrine for 'Chandran (Moon)' at Thingaloor.

Not everyone, though have the means or time to visit all these places in one go unless they are part of the special 'Navagraha Temples' package of the Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation (TTDC). Their coach starts from Chennai every Friday and brings back the visitors on Monday morning.

Pilgrims also have the option of joining any circuit offered by private operators from Tiruchirappalli, the nearest airport to Thirunallar.
"I have been visiting Thirunallar temple for the last 20 years.

Obstacles get removed, troubles are freed after we go there and perform an 'abishega' for Lord Saturn, " M B Shivappa, former Vice-President of Karnataka Sports Authority, told 'Deccan Herald' over phone from Bangalore.

It stemmed from the belief that King Nala was cured of his long years of curse and so "we take a dip at Nala-Theertha there', Shivappa who recently even accompanied Karnataka Food Minister V Somanna in the Yeddyurappa Ministry, explained. "If you suffer from any 'dosha' (defect), the impact after a visit to Thirunallar can be felt as it gets neutralised and peace ensues," says Satyanarayana, a pilgrim from Bangalore.

These remarks are revealing as a big chunk of devotees (nearly 35 per cent) visiting the Saturn temple at Thirunallar and the other planetary shrines nearby are from Karnataka. "Clearly, the majority of the people visiting our temple in recent years are from Karnataka," said Sreenivasan, official of the 'Sri Dharbaraneshwarar Devasthanam'.

From S M Krishna, Dharam Singh, Deve Gowda to the present Yeddyurappa, every Chief Minister from Karnataka makes it a point to visit Thirunallar. Before the political crisis shook Bangalore, during his recent visit which also covered the other planetary shrines, Yeddyurappa even offered a Rs 40-lakh grant for a 'golden Rishabha Vahanam' for the temple, Sreenivasan said.

Apart from the Cauvery delta sentiments associated with this shrine, the 'Saturn' deity at Thirunallar is in a calm and graceful mood. So, devotees "can take back the 'prasad' (like coconut or fruits offered to the Lord) home unlike in other Saturn shrines where they are not supposed to," he said. More the sentiment, more the crowds thronging this Temple that could touch 50,000 on any Saturday, the special day associated with Lord 'Sanishwara'.

All this translates into good local business as well. "If so many people from Karnataka throng this temple, it is mainly because they like Lord Sanishwara to their 'Kula Deivam'," concurred A Ramakrishnan, who runs 'Raja Rajan Guest House and Handicrafts at Thirunallar.

"Most pilgrims from Karnataka usually arrive in groups by cabs on a Friday night, have Darshan on Saturday and if possible visit the other eight planetary shrines nearby before heading back home," adds Ramakrishnan who himself presented a gift to Yeddyurappa during his latest visit. Worship at 'Suryanar Kovil' is a must even if they have no time for others.

Of course, one defining moment and the great event at Thirunallar Temple is the "Sani Peyarchi (Saturn transit day festival), when he moves from one star constellation of the zodiac to another every two-and-a-half years. That day the crowd exceeds an amazing five lakhs, given the temple's small area", said Sreenivasan.

With the next 'Sani Peyarchi' astronomically due on November 21, 2011, hectic preparations are already on to improve the infrastructure in Thirunallar. A Rs 50-crore Housing and Urban Development Corporation-assisted project to augment accommodation facilities for pilgrims, guest houses for VIPs' and VVIPs', besides and inner and outer ring road among others was nearing completion, added Sreenivasan.

The magnificent shrine for Lord Saneeshwara at Thirunallar is both revered and feared by millions of the faithful. His planetary influence makes him a God of playing both "giver and destroyer". Ergo, the unending rush to what was once a forest of 'kusa grass (Darbam in Sanskrit)' to soften destiny's blows continue, making suffering bearable for the masses.

 

Regards,
Shashi

Festivity - Thrissur article in DH

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/183515/content/217211/99-varieties-crispy-dosas.html

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A magnificent spectacle

Maya Jayapal

Festivity

It is the last day of the famous Pooram festival in Thrissur, when there is a final display of spectacular rituals, religious fervour and magnificent organisation. When all of India — and the world — converge on a small town in Kerala called Thrissivaperur or the abode of Lord Siva.

Many choose to stay within the cooler confines of their houses and watch the 36-hour spectacle unfold on their TV screens. But I chose to brave the sweltering heat of Kerala and watch the ritual under its humid skies.
 
It started that morning with the people rushing out of the hotel where I was staying as soon as the sound of drumming was heard. The deities from the eight smaller temples from around Thrissur were making their way to the main temple, the Vadakkunatha temple, on elephants. So efficiently is it organised that the programme gives routes, timings and even the number of elephants for each temple.

Legend states that Sakthan Thamburan ((1751-1805) decided to hold the Pooram, which used to be held in Arattupuzha nearby, in Thrissur after the smaller temples complained that they were not allowed to participate one year as the monsoons delayed them. So he had the massive teak forest in front of the Vadakkunathan temple cleaned and held it there. He then directed the main temples in Thrissur, the Paramekkavu and the Thiruvembadi temples to support the eight smaller temples. It is said that underlying his decision to shift the venue was a desire to bring to heel the priestly Brahmin aristocracy.
Thus it is truly the common man's festival.

The itinerary is strictly adhered to, starting with the raising of the flag in the temples. Then the deities are taken in procession on elephants to receive offerings of paddy.
There are two time honoured curtain raisers which set the mood of the festival — the display of ornaments from the temple and for the elephants and the sample fireworks at dusk a day before the Pooram.

Early in the morning on Pooram day, the images of the deities from the Paramekkavu and Thiruvembady Devi temples are taken in procession on elephants, accompanied by percussion ensembles, to the main Siva temple at Vadakkunnathan. The Paramekkavu temple, situated on a rock, is dedicated to a Bhagavathy or goddess who has a direct connection with the Siva temple. Story goes that she came originally from another ancient temple where an ardent devotee from Thrissur would go every month to worship.
But age and ailments made it difficult for him to undertake this arduous journey. So the goddess accompanied him back to the town on the back of his umbrella. He rested the umbrella under the ilanji tree in the Siva temple and because of Her power it was difficult to move it. It was later shifted to the present temple. The original ilanji tree has fallen and a new one is there now and it is near this that the magnificent melam is conducted.
It is three extraordinary hours of percussion playing by 250 musicians lined up in front of the elephants and a huge crowd. It is a beautiful sight, the thunderous music synchronised with the raising and lowering of the mahouts' yak tail whisks and peacock feather fans. It is almost as if this is the mission of the men and their mounts in life, all their experiences culminating in this remarkable finale.

The pulsing crowd raised their hands with the palm leaf fans to keep in tune with the crescendo of the music. It is almost like a rock concert, but the appreciation is tinged with awe and reverence for the ritual, the men and the animals.

The elephants, on their journey to the main temple, are accompanied by the pancha vadyam, the five-instrument orchestra which every musician worthy of his instrument aspires to play at the Pooram. We waited in the sweaty hot climate for almost two hours for the performance to start. There was no impatience.

For the Pooram, the tuskers are chosen with great care, and each of the two devi temples uses 15 elephants, with the smaller temples being allotted less.

I visited both the Paramekkavu and the Vadakkunnathan temples in the morning before the throngs arrived. Sheaths of palm leaves, the first tender clusters, were strung up from the rafters and beams surrounding the sanctum sanctorum, interspersed with golden marigolds. Women in white mundus with coloured or gold borders, and bare chested men in mundus, walked along the circumambulation path, making their offerings of jaggery, rice, paddy, kumkum, ginger, haldi, etc.

The Vadakkunnathan temple, equally majestic, is over a 1,000 years old and has beautiful 17th century murals depicting the Mahabharata. The koothambalam or traditional theatre within the temple is of artistically carved teak. The idol of Siva is covered under a mound of ghee, formed after years of offerings. When the eye gets accustomed to the hallowed darkness of the sanctum, there is the 13-foot mountain of ghee embellished with the cascading crescents of gold and three serpent hoods at the top. Sometimes, this ghee mound, which does not smell or taste rancid, breaks up and is offered to devotees.

The grand finale is conducted on the maidan in front of the Siva temple with 30 elephants, with the images of goddesses on the central biggest elephant, facing each other, and changing the umbrellas. Thirty sets of umbrellas of variegated hues and patterns are passed up to the men on the elephants, while all the time the whisks and the fans are moved up and down. The patterns of the umbrellas are a close secret and every year after the function they are sold off.  And when darkness falls, the torches are fired and the whole spectacle is like an illumination. And all this to the accompaniment of the resonant, vibrating music.

What was amazing to me was the discipline of the crowds. I did not, at anytime, feel unsafe or threatened amid the lakhs of spectators, for they had time only for the pulsating hypnotic ritual. I spoke to a couple of spectators who come every year with their families. The women say that they do not feel threatened at all in the crush of the  crowds. Truly a democratic festival, with all the pomp and panoply of royalty.

 

Regards,
Shashi

Thar desert Rajastan - article in DH

There is nothing better than watching the bare sky adorned with twinkling stars from a tent pitched in the middle of a desert. We had camped off the Thar Desert, some 40 km away from Jaisalmer.

There are several desert camps to give city dwellers like me a taste of desert life and we were there in one such camp as Pal Rajah's guests — paid of course. The camp is on a stretch of land that his ancestors had bought. Pal's parents grew bajra there once and just across the camp is the sprawling desolate tract.  A French tourist, Pal told us, sold him the idea of converting that piece of land into an overnight camp for tourists. The Frenchman was right. Pal is all smiles as the desert has set his cash register ringing. Urban dwellers are flocking this place to get a feel of desert life.

The Swiss tents, our abode for the night, were spacious and clean. The bathroom was sparkling. The generator purred as it illuminated the desert campus, albeit dimly. But for Pal, meeting the guests' needs is an ordeal. Nothing is available locally. The water is brackish. So, drinking water is fetched in tankers from Jaisalmer. Vegetables, bread, wheat flour — everything a tourist needs is 'imported'. Only sand, sunshine and insects were in abundance.

Our date with the Thar began after a cup of hot tea with fake Parle 'biskoots' after we checked into the hotel for the evening. Camels were waiting to take us on a ride on the sand dunes with a free sunset view thrown in. Till it is time to ride back, the desert is all yours — you can roll, skate or jump. Our guide kept us busy with his chatter. There was a roll call of Bollywood male stars as the camels are named after them and mine was named after Mithun Chakravarthy.

After our stroll on the sands, we freshened up but the brackish water in the bathroom did not help. Soon, it was time to enjoy a camp fire. Wooden logs were lit and local folk singers took stage with their saathis. Snacks were passed around as we parked ourselves on durries or chairs. To give us a taste of local culture, Pal called in some local artistes, who entertained us with folk music. After a little while, it was time for the desert folk dance. Dressed in traditional attire, a young dancer entertained the audience with her rhythmic steps. Soon, Pal announced that dinner was ready. The pure vegetarian meal was fresh and served hot. It was time to retire. A quiet blanket enveloped the area as we gathered near our tents and looked up to get an uninterrupted view of stars sparkling in the sky — a rare sight for urbanites.

Next morning, we were up early, ready to take a stroll and leave our footprints on the sands of Thar.

 

Regards,
Shashi

Modern day Gold Rush.

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/364216/modern-gold-rush.html

Why has horror fiction never taken off as a genre in popular Indian literature? There is simply too much competition from newspapers. Which bizarre author's imagination could ever compete with the day's news in the wild and improbable?

You do not need Bram Stoker, and blood being sucked from a woman's neck with the pearly fangs of a Dracula, in an India replete with the leech-habits of some rascals who sell themselves as godmen. The devotees of such frauds run into millions. Their usurped land extends across thousands of acres. How stupid can Indians get?

As it turns out, very stupid indeed. In the long and complicated story of herd madness, very little beats the frenetic search for a thousand tonnes of gold at a place called Daundia Khera in Uttar Pradesh because a certain Swami Shobhan Sarkar recently dreamt it was buried there more than 150 years ago by a Raja Ram Baksh. No one had heard of this Raja until the Swami's dream turned him into a potential hero of a Bollywood film. But apparently this princeling buried this vast treasure before 1857 so that the victorious British would not be able to lay their hands on Indian gold.

Don't blame the masses for frothing at the mouth. Even the august mandarins from the Ministry of Culture and Archaeological Survey of India are licking their lips. And our very modern, computer-savvy Chief Minister Akhilesh Yadav has apparently sent an emissary to the venerable Swami to check whether the man of god will permit the man of the people to use this gold for the state's development. Of course, this magic gold, if ever found, will probably be used for the welfare of politicians in power rather than a populace in distress, but that is another story.

Personally, I hope they find this gold, even though I am unlikely to get permission to even sniff at it, let alone be able to slip an ounce in a back pocket. Akhilesh Yadav might then be able to pay up for the computers he has bought to gift away, which is good news for multinationals. But silly questions keep wandering around in my vacant mind, and will not shift to better breeding space.

The pointy-heads of Government of India have explained that they are digging for this gold because they have "scientific evidence" of its existence. Interesting. This is not a rich seam of gold in the bowels of mother earth that we are talking about. This is gold stored in clay or iron pots, depending on the advice that the old Raja Ram Baksh got from his mandarins.

Underground glitter

How do you get scientific evidence about pots and pans? Did some clever laser beam actually see an underground glitter, and conclude that all that glitters is in fact gold? Gold, to the best of my limited knowledge, does not get musty or rot; so they probably did not smell its existence. Or would it be fair to suggest that a few baboos in Delhi have been reading Treasure Island during their festival holidays?

An early victim of insanity is common sense. How rich was Raja Ram Baksh?He was not the Nawab of Awadh, or the Peshwa of the Marathas, or Raja of Benaras or Rani of Jhansi, or we might have heard a bit about him in our school text books. He did exist, certainly. But if he was not in the big league, how did he amass a thousand tonnes of gold? Even the East India Company, the richest merchant of the age, could not claim possession of such a hoard. The Mughals of Delhi might have, but Nadir Shah emptied their vaults in 1739, and that alas was that.

How do you bury so much gold at a time when the heaviest equipment for digging is a spade? With lots of labour, one presumes. All those peasants must be the most honest Indians of the last two hundred years. India is a land of worst-kept secrets, not best-kept ones. It is a miracle that no one returned to the site in 1867 or 1877 or even 1887. And no one snitched to the British either.

In any conflict between superstition and sense, superstition wins hands down in India. The Baba had a dream, and no one dare argue with the mysteries of nightfall.

Psychoanalysis, and its interpretation of dreams, would never have survived if Sigmund Freud had visited India.

Is India a land where dreams come true? Judging by everything from poverty to the manner in which road hogs drive in Delhi, the answer is clearly no. But if the manufacture of dreams were ever added to the Gross Domestic Production, we would have a GDP that surpassed the rest of Asia combined. Make no mistake. Those in charge of this production line make a neat profit. It is only suckers who invest in such dreams who return empty. ​

 

Regards,
Shashi

Purveyors of learning - article in DH

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/362975/purveyors-learning.html

Mysore for long has been hailed as a modern welfare state, a claim endorsed by Gandhiji himself. The Wodeyars and their Dewans kept pace with time and ensured that all sections of society became literate and learned, says Dr N N Prahallada.

The rulers of Mysore were great patrons of learning. Most of them were highly educated and have authored many books. The Wodeyars and Dewans had always in view the prosperity of education since they knew that education acted as a powerful instrument for the alround development of the State. With their persistent efforts several schools and colleges were started in the then Mysore State.

Earlier, education was meant exclusively for the Brahmins, the Kshatriyas and the upper class people. Private tutors were appointed to teach the boys and girls belonging to the royal family. The Jains, the Veerashaivas and the merchants used to send their children to schools. The lower classes were rather hesitant to send their children to distant schools since they were not aware of the value of education. Higher education was available only to a few. In Agraharas most of the teachers were Brahmin Pandits who used to receive an annuity from the government. The Pandits taught the vedas, the puranas, nyaya, meemamsa, dramatics, astrology, grammar, mathematics, languages and morals.

During the rule of Krishna Raja Wodeyar III, English education was patronised. Dewan K Seshadri Iyer (1883-1901) made great achievements in every sphere of activity during his eighteen years in the office. He was responsible for starting of Oriental Research Institute and the Department of Archaeology. He made special arrangements for the study of Sanskrit along with Kannada. General education was recognised. Technical education was encouraged. The Maharaja's College, affiliated to the Madras University, was upgraded into a first grade college and became the centre for study of humanities.

The Central College became the centre for science subjects. Several schools for girls like the Aryabalika Pathasala at Bangalore and the Empress Girls' High School at Tumkur were opened on the model of Maharani's school. The Mahar­ani's High School was upgraded into Maharani's College in 1901. During this period Harsha's Ratnavali, Bhavabhuti's Ramacharita, Mrichhakatika and Shakespeare's Othello were translated into Kannada.
In 1833 Maharaja High School, the first English school was opened in Mysore .

  In 1854 Western system of education was adopted on the basis of the famous Wood's dispatch which suggested establishing Director of Public Instruction (DPI) was suggested and even today there are DPIs in the Karnataka educational structure at primary and secondary education level. Transport facilities improved, attractingmany students towards learning. During the time of British Commissioners the European Christian Missionaries started English and Kannada schools in important centres.

Basel Mission, London Mission and Wesleyan Mission were notable ones, and they started schools in Mysore, Bangalore, Tumkur, Mangalore, Udupi, Dharwad, Bellary and Gulbarga. By 1860 many schools encouraged a number of children and those who received English education could easily get government jobs.

During 1881 to 1947 the princely Mysore state, comprising nine districts, had its  own educational policy. But education was not made compulsory. Chamaraja Wodeyar X took several steps to start more schools in important places. He encouraged starting of private schools. The Maharani's Primary School was the first to be started. Later it became today's Maharani's College. The Wodeyars arranged for scholarships to young promising students to go abroad for higher education. Maharaja's High School of Mysore became an ideal school. Several institutions for women were started.

Dewan P N Krishna Murthy (1901-1906) took progressive steps in the field of education. Job oriented courses for women were started. Scholarships and hostel facilities were provided to men and women. Several donors volunteered to contribute their mite to the cause of education.

During  Dewan V P Madhava Rao's (1906-1909) time J N Tata, the well-known industrialist and donor with cooperation of the government volunteered to contribute an annual sum of Rs 50,000/- to start The Indian Institute of Science. Technical schools were started to give training to craftsmen and architects. During this period primary school fee was abolished in rural areas.

Rao  encouraged Vokkaligas, Lingayats and others to come forward in establishing schools, colleges and hostels for their children in particular and others in general. He was mainly responsible for the establishment of Vokkaligara Sangha at Bangalore under the leadership of K H Ramaiah well known local leader. Lingayat Education Fund Association at Bangalore came into existence in 1909. Similarly, Vokkaliga hostels, Maratha hostels, Vysya hostels, Brahmin hostels and Sarvajanika hostels came into existence during his Dewanship.

Dewan Sir M Vishweshwaraiah (1912-18) gave importance to education. He strove for the development of industrial training, social education, business organisation, short hand and type writing. In 1918 a statute was passed to make primary education compulsory and it came into force in 68 centres, mostly in government schools. Sir M Visweshwaraiah introduced educational scholarships to backward classes and untouchables. Krishna Raja Wodeyar IV and Dewan Vishweshwaraiah provided suitable facilities for girls' education. Separate schools and hostels were started for girls.

The Agricultural Training Centre was started at Hebbal near Bangalore in 1913 to improve scientific method of agriculture to the farmers. Vishweshwaraiah also started the Bangalore Press. Kannada Sahitya Parishat was founded to develop  Kannada language and culture. In 1916, Mysore University was established. All the colleges which were under Madras University were affiliated to Mysore University. Maharaja's and Maharani's Colleges were established for the study of arts.

Sir M Vishweshwaraiah also donated Rs 2 lakhs (his award money from Maharaja of Mysore) to establish Jayachamarajendra Polytechnic at Bangalore. The Indian Government deservingly conferred on him the title of Bharata Ratna in 1953. Even today his name is a source of inspiration for many.

The tenure of Dewan Kantharaja Urs (1918-1922) may be described as the golden age as far as the backward classes are concerned. He introduced reservation for SCs and STs as per Justice Lesley Miller report.  Harijans and others were appointed to higher posts on reservation basis. Government schools were ordered to admit backward class, SC/ST students. Free education was given to all up to high school. The scholarship amount was raised for backward class students by the Dewan. Books and slates were freely distributed.

During Dewan Sir Mirza Ismail's (1926-1941) time, the Medical College at Mysore was started. In 1946-47 a special section was started to train teachers to teach Shishu Vihars. Special Sanskrit schools at Melkote and Sadvidhya Patashala in Mysore were started in 1890. By 1944 there were 94 institutions, including the Mysore Sanskrit College, The Jayachamarajendra Veda School in Bangalore and The Siddaganga Sanskrit School at Tumkur, where Sanskrit was taught as a major subject.

In 1935 a branch of Dakshina Bharatha Hindi Prachar Sabha was started at Dharwad. The Hindu Prachara Samiti was started in Bangalore in 1939. In 1943 The Mysore Hindi Prachara Parishat was started.

The Wodeyars encouraged Commerce studies. A commerce institute was started in Mysore in 1897. The Hardwicke School of Commerce was started in 1906. BCom classes were started in Central College, Bangalore and in 1941 the BCom degree course was introduced and Boards of Commerce were set-up. In 1937, physical training was made compulsory for high school students. The high school teachers were sent to YMCA (Young Men's Christian Association) for physical training.

Jayachamaraja Wodeyar had great love towards religion, literature, art and philosophy. Author of many books, he evinced keen interest in the cause of education. He gave up many of his private buildings for the use of educational institutions like the Central Food technology and Research Institute (CFTRI), the Mysore University building, etc.
Thus, the collective efforts of the Mysore rulers have really benefitted our State to achieve laurels in many areas.

 

Regards,
Shashi

Bhoganandeeshwara temple article in DH

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/362973/architectural-marvel-lap-nature.html

he Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple near the Nandi Hills bears the stamp of five Indian ruling dynasties, resulting in structural wealth that leaves Hema Narayanan mesmerised.

If you are a Bangalorean or a visitor to this City, you most certainly have made a climb up to the Nandi Hills.  You sure have seen the huge statue of the bull in the temple on top.  But did you know, that at its foothills lays the Bhoga Nandeeshwara temple, an aesthetically beautiful heritage structure in stone?  A Hindu temple, known to be one of the oldest in Karnataka. Largely unexplored, untouched and unique…

It was by a matter of chance that I drove past this temple a few months ago during a visit to a farmhouse near Nandi Hills. Its lasting first impression made me go back to absorb more of this unique temple.

It is a magnificent large complex, with intricate work of stone carvings all over.  Talking to the priests, who turned out to be useful source of historical facts, made me realise what a place of wonder I had unravelled.

Walking in the corridors of the temple for the next two hours truly stunned me. Bhoga Nandeeshwara temple has the stamps of five Indian ruling dynasties – a record not many Hindu temples can claim to possess!

First of all, the complex houses not one, but three temples in all. Dating back to the 9th Century, the first phase was built by Queen named Ratnavali.

Then came the five masters of architecture and stonework, over the years — namely the Cholas, Gangas, Hoysalas, Pallavas and the Vijayanagara Kings. The temple portrays a medley of styles; the pillars, the ceilings, the statuettes, the shrines, the deities inside them and the infinite carvings have a distinct flavour of each of their architectural styles.

Each dynasty either extended it to make it larger or renovated it, but most importantly, left behind their own mark, in terms of their style of architecture! It is believed that the Cholas added the roof in the 11th Century, the Gangas built the main temple, the Hoysalas added the marriage hall in the 13th Century, whereas the Vijayanagara Kings made the building and the Pushkarni (tank).

The gopura (ornate monumental tower at the entrance of any temple in South India) is seen more on the inside at the Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple and not outside. This is an evidence in itself, that these were built by the Pallavas, since the origin of the gopura is tracked back to the early structures of Pallavas – who came in fourth (in order) in constructing this temple.

The gopura has added a majestic appeal against the backdrop of the deep blue skies and the hills of Nandi - the ranges of which are seen, all around the temple. Talking of five, it is an interesting coincidence that there are actually five hills here, which are in turn sources of five various rivers, namely Arkavathy, Swarnamukhi, Papagni, Palar and Pinakini. 

Dravidian style

'Architecture starts where engineering ends,' it is said. However, where was the engineering in those days?  It was only the sheer visual imagination, physical strength and creative skills of the architects that have made Bhoga Nandeeshwara, a fine example of Dravidian architecture.

Dedicated solely to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati, I was in admiration of their well-thought out plan for the temples to depict different phases of Lord Shiva's life, even though the construction spanned over time and dynasties. Of the three temples inside, the Arunachaleshwara represents the childhood days of Shiva, while the Uma Maheshwara and Bhoga Nandeeshwara temples represent his youth.

Aptly, the Yoga Nandeeshwara temple on top of the Nandi Hills, represents his final renunciation stage.

Mesmerised, I walked into the second part of the temple and came across a large indoor breathtaking water pond (Pushkarni), called the Shringi Theertha. It has deep green water at the centre, with rock-cut symmetric steps on all four sides. Legend has it, that the great Bull Nandi plunged its horns into the ground to draw out water from the River Ganga and thus created this pond, which henceforth was considered the source of River Pinakini.

It was a delightful outing for me as a shutterbug — every carved stone and step was waiting to be captured. Plan to spend some time here, if architectural photography interests you. 

To me, witnessing this century old temple, that was impregnable until the British stormed it in 1791 when they defeated Tipu Sultan, was like walking the path of ancient history. Especially when it was at the foothills of lush green Nandi valley, amidst pristine forests and surrounded by the monkeys!

How to get there

Located merely at 60 kilometres from Bangalore, it is a wonderful weekend getaway, along with Nandi Hills. Many celebrations happen all through, but thrice a year, 1,00,000 lamps are lit on the main festival days. Thus, Shivarathri is one of the best times to visit the temple. Plenty of buses ply on the route daily.

 

Regards,
Shashi

When the Jog falls beckon - article in DH -

http://www.deccanherald.com/content/362981/when-jog-falls-beckon.html

-- cut and paste --

Jog is not limited to hosting India's second highest falls. It also provides testimony to the foresight of a benevolent ruler and an able administrator in harnessing hydal power to light up the State. Nestled amidst nature that is beautifully dangerous, the region's charm is eternal, vouches B V Prakash.

Karnataka is indeed blessed with a major part of a long line of mountain ranges that form the Western Ghats. Running along the western coast parallel to the sea these mountainous tracts are where the south west Monsoon drains a copious rainfall enabling a dense growth of forests in the valleys.

The greenery, the salubrious climate and a good watershed have all been conducive for the growth and sustenance of a great variety of flora and fauna which has earned the Western Ghats the distinction of being one of the top biodiversity hotspots of the world. A good number of rivers that originate in these mountains have not only been a lifeline for the people along their course but have also been a major source of power generation in the state.

Flowing over the undulating hilly terrain of the Ghats the rivers have also created numerous waterfalls that are a wonderful sight to behold. Among the countless number of waterfalls in Karnataka the one that steals the show with its breathtaking beauty is undoubtedly the Jog Falls in Shimoga district.

Other names by which it is referred are Gerusoppa Falls and Jogada Gundi. Listed as one of the 1,001 natural wonders of the world, it is also the second highest waterfall in India next only to Nohkalikai Falls of Meghalaya. The river Sharavathi springs at a nondescript town called Ambutheertha in Thirthahalli taluk.

Flowing in a north-westerly direction for about 80 kilometres it passes through the village of Kargal before taking a plunge into the 960-foot ravine. Joined by smaller streams and tributaries like Haridravathi and Yennehole it generates enough volume and force as it splits into four distinct streams just before the drop. Each one takes its own shape and formation as it drops which has given them charming names. The fall at the extreme left, called Raja, jumps down 830 feet in a straight line.

The Roarer begins at a lower height and drops with a thundering din and is aptly called so. The third fall, Rocket, flows with a multitude of jet like formations while the one at right gently slithers down with the grace of a lady and as such named Rani. The viewing platform on the western side of the valley is the vantage point from where the beauty of the falls and the valley can be experienced. The afternoons are especially better when the evening sun creates a rainbow of colours on the falls. The river flows a further 40 kilometres westward passing through Gerusoppa before joining the Arabian sea at Honnavar.

History of power generation

The Jog Falls had been just a beauty spot for long and its potential for power generation had not been explored until as late as 1940s. It was in 1939 during the time of Maharaja of Mysore, Sri Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV that the first idea for power generation was conceived. At a village called Hirebhaskara about 20 kilometres upstream from Jog a dam was built and the earliest power generating station called Krishna Rajendra hydro electric project was commissioned. The flow of water from the dam, also called Madenur reservoir, would be utilised to  create power to the tune of 120MW. But as fate would have it the assassination of Gandhiji in 1948 put off the plant from going on stream.

The following year the dam was inaugurated and the power plant renamed as Mahatma Gandhi Hydro Electric project (MGHE) was commissioned with an installed capacity of 139.2 MW power generation. Even in those days the power generated at this station was a significant contribution to the total power output of the state.  In 1960s, the Karnataka Power Corporation limited (KPCL) came up with a bigger plan for optimising the power generation.

As Vinayak Kumar, an engineer with the KPCL puts it, at hardly 11 kilometres upstream from Jog a huge dam was built across the Sharavathi to create the Linganamakki reservoir.

A power house was also built at the edge of the reservoir to generate 55 MW from two units. This was called Linganamakki Dam project. The excess water after power generation was rechannelled into a balancing reservoir at Talakalale village.  The waters from Talakalale reservoir were directed to a bigger power plant at Ane Bailu village. Called AB site power station this was a mega power plant generating 1,035MW ! Later this project was renamed as Sharavathi Generating Station (SGS). The overflowing water was further harnessed for energy at Gerusoppa, 30 kilometres downstream with a power generation capacity of 240 MW called the Sharavathi Tailrace Project.

As a second line of power generation an Anicut called Kargal Dam was created closer to the falls area from where the waters were diverted to Shiroor Kere reservoir on its way to the first installed MGHE plant. By 1980s two reservoirs, Chakra and Savehaklu were created near Mastikatte exclusively to feed more water to Linganamakki reservoir and harness power, says Vinayak kumar.

After all these diversions the waters at Jog reduced and the falls lost its natural glory. The only consolation was that a huge chunk of the State's power generation came from the four projects collectively referred as Sharavathi  Hydel Project. Today, if you want to view the Jog Falls in all its splendour you have to visit in the peak Monsoon season when the gates of the dam are opened and the falls come alive. At other times as well the falls do not fail to mesmerise with the pure white streaks dropping into the abyss surrounded by lush green forests of the valley. For the adventurous walking down to the base over the 1,400 steps can be exciting and exhausting as well.

Virtual death trap

The beauty of the Jog Falls is no doubt captivating. But the deep chasm is also dangerous for the misadventurous. For many of the visitors walking to the top of the falls via the British Bungalow and viewing down from the edge seems thrilling. More so after movie Mungaaru Male was released in 2006 which featured stunning cinematographic shots from the head of the falls. But few realise that it is also a virtual death trap.

The jagged rocks at the top are unstable and slippery causing unexpected accidents. If statistics are any indication the accidental fall of visitors, especially the youth, at the falls has been regular. In 2007  seven people had died here while 2008 claimed as many as 18 lives. The recent news of three youths slipping into the falls is still fresh in memory. But it is heartening to note that the authorities concerned are preventing visitors from taking extreme risks.

Other places of interest

At Jog, the falls is not the only attraction. Though the dams and power houses are out of bounds for tourists there are quite a few spots around the place that are worth looking. At about six kilometres from Jog is Kargal. In the vicinity is an attractive temple of Chowdeshwari. The entrance tower is colourful as well as the interiors. The fair during Navarathri draws lakhs of pilgrims.

On a deviation from the MG circle near Jog, a path goes up to a viewpoint on the edge of the hill where a polygonal stone structure has been built. Called Rajakallu, this was the foundation stone laid by Sri Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV on February 5, 1939. It is said that the  Maharaja used to frequent this place to enjoy the view of the valley and the falls. The view of Mavina Gundi falls dropping into a forested valley is astounding. Close by is the Mahatma Gandhi Park, a shady place with children's play area.

On the way back, the  ancient temple of Chamundeshwari can be  visited too. The idol of the goddess here, which is unique with two faces, in front and beh­i­nd, is said to have been donated by the Maharaja. Hardly a kilometre from the fa­lls is the green  lake of Shiroor Kere wi­th a hanging bridge at one end. This is a quiet and peaceful spot ideal for a picnic.

All these little known places make a visit to the Jog falls meaningful and memorable.

 

Regards,
Shashi